Nino’s Favorite Rome Cafes

CAFFE` SANT’ EUSTACCHIO, ROME ITALY

Clink, Clink, Clink. To me, one of the sweetest sounds is the ceramic cups and saucers at busy Italian caffes. When I hear that sound, I become like a Pavlovian dog salivating and craving a shot of that perfectly gritty and just-the-right-amount bitter espresso that always tastes better in Italy. Is it the water? The process? The craftsmanship of the barista? Or, just the awareness that I’m enjoying it in one of the most beautiful and ancient places in the world? Whatever the reason, it’s an important part of enjoying La Dolce Vita, letting out a happy sigh and saying “ahhhhh Roma.”

In Italy, it’s common to have multiple caffes on each block, especially in Rome. But paper cups & to-go are not a thing. In all our travels, I think I’ve only been to one place that actually had coffee for “portare via” (to take away), and even there it wasn’t obvious, you had to ask for it. Most Italians step into a caffe, pay at the cashier, then take their tiny receipt to the barista where they make you a shot of espresso, macchiato, or cappucino, and then enjoy it while standing at the counter. Often it’s accompanied by a tiny glass of water as a chaser to keep you hydrated, and off you go.

A few things to note…the most common orders are espressos or macchiatos (just a dollop of creme in your espresso). If you want a slightly bigger amount, order a “doppio” (double). They’ll make you a cappuccino anytime of day, but usually Italians only order cappuccinos for breakfast. Do not order a “latte” as in Italy that means a glass of milk…no coffee. If you want an American-style coffee…good luck..most caffes do not offer this. Some hotels may include a choice of American-style coffee in their breakfast spread, and it is possible to find McDonalds, and I hear Starbucks may actually be opening soon. But, this is blasphemous. You’re in Italy…when in Rome….

Sant' Eustachio Caffè

Piazza di S. Eustachio, 82

Our “crackhouse.” Our first trip to Rome, Dawn and I went with her cousins who are huge foodies. Back in the states, they had their own coffee dealer who would get coffee beans imported from Caffe’ Sant’ Eustachio. So, you know we had to visit.

Well, let’s just say during our 6 day stay in Rome, we went there everyday, sometimes 2 or 3 times a day. Even though we were staying in a totally different part of the city. We started calling it our crackhouse. We were addicted.

There’s something about the process that makes the coffee a bit foamy, even if there’s no cream. They keep their machines behind a partition wall so you can’t watch them make it. Of course we bought some coffee beans to take home, and although tasty, not quite the same as imbibing in Rome. It is very gritty, bold, and a bit more bitter than American coffee, so be ready.

We’ve been to Rome numerous times since, and every trip always includes at least one visit to Caffe Sant’ Eustacchio. But, now we have a few other places we feel are just as good.

A few things to keep in mind. They make their espresso with sugar as a standard. So, if you don’t want sugar, make sure to tell the barista, “Sense Zucchero” (without sugar). They do have outdoor seating, and if you decide to relax while taking time with your coffee, a waiter will take your order. You’ll also be charged a “coperto” (cover) for sitting at the seats. Usually only a couple Euro, and it’s totally worth it to people watch those coming in and out and walking around the small piazza. It’s near a government building so it’s fun to see the well-dressed Italians walk or scooter by. Dawn especially liked watching—I mean drooling over—the Italian police that were everpresent.

La Casa del Caffe` Tazza D’Oro

Via degli Orfani, 84, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Our new favorite, we think it edges out Sant’ Eustacchio by a hair. It’s centrally located, just around the corner and still in view of the Pantheon. It’s usually packed, but finding a slower time is great to enjoy a cup of espresso at the counter. Dawn swears they have the best chocolate croissants.

Alexander loves their famous espresso granitas (shaved espresso-flavored ice with whip cream). Supposedly this place was the inspiration for the founder of Starbucks. But the espresso drinks here are on a whole nother level.

Antico Caffe’ Greco

Via dei Condotti, 86

The oldest Caffe in Rome, and second oldest in all of Italy (maybe all of Europe?). Supposedly Casanova, Goethe, Gogol, Stendhal, Keats, Byron, Andersen and other historically-famous people frequented the caffe and discussed academic affairs.

It’s a beautiful setting, and you can feel the history in the walls, and many rooms and enclaves you can grab a spot to sit. However, be warned that they charge you extra to sit, otherwise, you can drink your espresso and eat your pastry at the counter like all other caffes.

The espresso here is good, but we don’t think as good as the Tazza or Eustacchio. And it’s a small bit pricier, but it’s worth a visit for the history. It’s also just steps away from the Spanish Steps, on the famed shopping street of Via dei Condotti.

Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria

Piazza Benedetto Cairoli, 16

We stumbled on this place because it was near our Campo di Fiori apartment. The Roscioli name is well known as they have a popular pizza place around the corner, and another deli/restaurant just a few doors down. The coffee was solid and the pastries in the morning and sandwiches in the afternoon were tasty. The visit we stayed nearby, this became our daily breakfast spot. We enjoyed it so much we returned a few times our next visits even though we stayed further away.

More modern and efficient, it may not be a place to go out of your way to try, but if you’re nearby and wanting a shot or a quick bite, stop in!